Tuesday, May 13, 2014

It's been a little while



Wow—it’s been a while since updating this blog. I won’t go into too much into detail over the last few months, since that could probably fill a novel. Instead I’ll just provide a few highlights.

I will be staying a second year in Austria! More than that, I’ll be spending a second year in Villach at my same school. I will be back in the States for 3 months in the summer between.
I visited lots of cool places including:
-Ljubljana, Slovenia
-Croatia (especially Pula and Rovinj)
-Munich to see Amelia
-Lots of cool sites around Villach including:
                -celebrating Faschings (their version of Mardi Gras) which fell on my birthday)
                -The Bauernmarkt or summer evening market just out of town
                -several lakes
                -small villages—regardless of what side of the Austrian border they’re on
                -and a river that shares my name

Though the travel has been especially fun, it’s the connections I’ve made in such a short time that makes this year even more special. Little moments of shared coffee or collective hours spent cooking cannot be easily put into a list. Nor can birthday parties or being there for those you care about recovering from illness. It’s this opportunity to get to know people still living in Villach even better that motivated me to stay right here for one more school year.

Saturday, February 22, 2014

Trieste Trip + Slovenia

Even though I just finished a blog post about my travels around Germany and Strasbourg, France just three days after getting back, I was on my way for more sightseeing.

Some of the students at my school elected to go on a three day-two night field trip to Trieste, Italy and the surrounding areas where they would learn about geology and geography of the region, wind, and among other things, as well as practice their Italian. One of the teachers who organized the trip was a French and Italian teacher, and invited her TAs along. She graciously extended the invitation to me, which I (of course) accepted.

We were able to see a LOT. Part of the trip was with the students, and part was just us three TAs exploring.

About Trieste (briefly):

Getting to Trieste from Villach took a mere 2 or 2.5 hours by bus. It's a city in Northern Italy that's also right on the Slovenian border. When the Hapsburgs were still in power, it was one of the Austro-Hungarian Empire's only access to the seas and was an extremely important city (just behind Vienna, Prague, and Budapest).



Dinosaurs!

Our first stop with the students was to a palentological site in the tiny village of “Villagio del Pescatore” where “Antonio” the dinosaur was uncovered. This dinosaur was the largest and most complete dinosaur skeleton ever found in Europe.



Afterwards was a trip to the natural history museum in Trieste where the actual skeleton was housed. Pretty interesting! However the presentation was pretty much completely in Italian, and my Spanish skills only helped me enough to discern what the researchers were talking about—not actually any details.



As the students got settled in the the school and Italian students they were working with, the teachers and us TAs wandered around Trieste, saw some churches, the big piazza, and indulged in good espresso and later good food.

Day of Exploring Trieste


The next day, while our students were in school, Marie, Donatella, and I set off to explore more of the city itself—this time with daylight.

We saw Roman ruins



More old churches and a castle



Got food



Visited the few open museums

And went window shopping

One of the most unexpected parts of this day was in wandering around Trieste. We ended up running into someone else we knew who lived in Villach (Daniel). Either the world's too small, I'm somehow a socialite, or coincidences are eerie and fun.

Day 3—Gorgeous surprises


For some reason, I didn't know the German word for cave was “die Höhle” so when I saw that word on the program I thought it meant something like cliff—or something up high.

When I realized we were going to caves I was pretty excited. I've been to very few caves—and certainly none in an area with terrain as varied as this region.

Second surprise? The cave system happened to me in Slovenia! I still haven't been to Slovenia even though I live right on the border. The caves we visited were the Škocjan Caves—also a UNESCO world heritage site.



It's one of the largest underground canyon systems in the world, has underground rivers, and the region has been inhabited on and off for thousands of years. Though I took some pictures both outside and inside, they don't do the site justice. Regardless—here's some to share.












NOW I'm ready to just hang in Villach and work on other projects.

Speaking of, if you are interested, I started another blog about all things coding and web (which I plan to keep pretty separate from here. Check it out if you're interested in/ thinking about learning similar things I decided to work with): http://skeinsofcode.wordpress.com/ 

Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Semester Break Adventures

As I might have already mentioned, the semester break from schools in Austria is usually in February. In the secondary schools this break lasts for a week. For me this meant a week of traveling and catching up with various people in my life.

I planned on staying with four different people over nine nights of my break in Germany and France. This meant a lot of travel by train. I haven't yet figured out the best way to get super cheap German train tickets (if they exist)--and I certainly didn't buy my tickets enough in advance to qualify for most of the discounts anyway, so I decided to go with a Germany-Austria Eurorail pass. It was certainly MUCH cheaper than getting regular rail tickets, at least

HEIDELBERG (Feb. 7th-10th)

My first stop on this trip was in Heidelberg where I stayed for three nights. I got to visit my friend Amelia again—who I also saw in Vienna in November.

When I left Villach, the city was covered by a meter of snow and my train was one of the first running on time between here and Salzburg in about a week. So when I finally arrived in Heidelberg it was incredibly mild—and even warm (well, it is the warmest part of Germany).

The city was absolutely beautiful!

One of the typical touristy sites we visited was the Heidelberg castle, which was a lot of fun and gave a great view of the city.

In addition to wandering around the Altstadt, I also spent time at another touristy place, the Philosophenweg.



Despite all of these beautiful things, I think some of the parts I enjoyed the most included sitting in coffee shops and really catching up with Amelia. And, does Heidelberg deliver on great coffee shops! I found my first pour over coffee since leaving the states, and could choose between all sorts of different roasts of coffee, at least at my favorite place there, Coffee Nerd. (My Villach coffee shop still holds a special place in my heart, though).

Another great thing was I also was able to enjoy a bite to eat with some other folks I met in Sarasota, Sandra and Peter!



All-in-all, it was a wonderful visit and I hope I can return (or that Amelia visits me!)

STRASBOURG (Feb 10-12)

The next stop on my tour was the city of Strasbourg. Historically I was interested in the city because I like early medieval history. One of more important documents in the 9th century was signed in the city and drafted in 3 languages (the Oaths of Strasbourg for fellow history nerds). The document itself is stored in Paris, but still doesn't detract from the city's significance.

However, my main reason for visiting the city was to reconnect with an old friend I haven't seen in over 5 years—Clarissa. We met way back in 2007 when she was an exchange student in my hometown. During my exchange year I visited her in Germany. But now she studies in Strasbourg.



We did a lot of wandering around the old town—which was also gorgeous. One of the more famous sections was the preserved old town, full of half timbered housing.



We also splurged on a boat tour of the city which lent itself to great pictures as well.



My last evening there Clarissa, some of her school friends, and I went to a wonderful little bar with a great selection of Belgian beer—something I definitely missed while living in Villach. Mmmmm Delirium Tremens


MÜNSTER (Feb 12-14)

Another stop and another reconnection with my distant past.
In the University town of Muenster, I spent two days with my friend Kenneth and his roommate. Ken and I chatted a lot online way back in 2005 and 2006. Since Muenster was near to Clarissa's hometown, I also got to meet him in person for the first time in 2008.

The visit was pretty low key in the best way. I already saw some of the main tourist sites in 2008, so there was a lot of time just to chat and bond over food and walks around the city (including the university botanical gardens—even if it was the off season).



I also got to nerd it up and get cozy with board games and fun television (and singing along to Doctor Horrible) in the evenings. Hopefully it will be less than 5 years until the next time we see each other again!

KÖLN (Feb 14)

While I didn't stay the night in Koeln (Cologne), I made a point to stop there for a few hours, since it was right between Muenster and my next stop. Even though I was there and extremely short time I LOVED the city.

Part of the reason I chose to stop here as opposed to elsewhere was because I knew the MASSIVE cathedral was right next to the main train station. I've been to a lot of large, old, churches but the outside of this one just might take the cake. At 157.4 meters (or 516 feet) it's pretty insane. At its completion in 1880, it was briefly the tallest building in the world.



Pictures is not doing this cathedral justice...

I also had some time to wander onto a bridge over the Rhine, wander about the old town, and take in some sites. It definitely had a pretty nice, liberal big city feel to it too.

One of my favorite places I stumbled upon was the largest costume store Ive ever been to. As big of a deal as Villach's Fasching is, Cologne's Karnival (by virtue of the size of the city) is even larger. It was the perfect place to find some accessories for my costume back in Villach.



WÜRZBURG (Feb 14-16)

My final stop on my tour was the city of Wuerzburg. I'd been talking to someone online from the city for a few months, and decided that trip would be the perfect time to finally meet up.

Though it rained most of the time, visiting the city was a lot of fun. We hiked up to the fortress, which housed an impressive museum.



We also saw a bunch of churches and got delicious food.

One thing that particularly interested me but may bore other people was I got to see where the medieval poet, Walther von der Volgelweide was buried. Writing in the 13th century he is THE most celebrated Middle High German poet, in case ya cared (which I do....)



Though a very short visit, it was pretty neat.


The next day involve a 7.5 hour train ride back to Villach. I have just enough time to recuperate before my next small trip coming up on Wednesday-- three days in Trieste, Italy. Can't wait!

Sunday, February 2, 2014

What a Wonderful Month at home in Carinthia

In contrast to the excitement of Christmas and New Years with my family, January was quiet. For me this was wonderful since it left a lot of time to start some new things (and get back into old things) I never really made time for.

At my time at New College we had something called an ISP, or Independent Study Project. Between Fall and Spring semesters was about a month where students would work on their own projects, internships, or what-have you. With a large percentage of campus gone elsewhere, it was usually a nice quiet few weeks. For many people (depending on their project and things outside of school) it was also a time for trying new things or reorienting oneself.
In the Austrian school this year there was also about four to five weeks between Winter Break and the technical end of the semester. For me this was a nice parallel to my life for the four years before this. I think I used these well (even if it meant being less immersed in German than I originally expected)

Things I did


Fitness

Like countless people I decided to start “getting in shape”. My goals probably weren't defined enough to help me stick to this the rest of the year, but I definitely made an effort to get a little healthier this January. I discovered the website and videos from FitnessBlender and started doing workouts along to them. I think they're really well-done, and I hope to keep referring to them throughout the year. The opportunity to do some hiking once it gets warm is at least a small motivation.

Spanish

Even though I am in a German speaking country, for some reason, I decided to get back into Spanish. I had already learned a lot—5 years of high school Spanish, Spanish conference in said high school, and a few refresher courses in college. It was my first of several foreign languages I started learning, so it holds a special place for me. I spent a good bit of time on Duolingo refreshing a lot of the basics, and just signed up for a Spanish conversation class starting in February here—can't wait!

Travel in Carinthia

So I don't think I left my state in Austria at all this month. Which is fine because I already have plans to make up for this as early as next week. However, I did check out a few interesting places while here.

Warmbad

Warmbad is still technically part of Villach and is absolutely beautiful. The area is famous for its warm springs (hence the name). There's both an inside swimming area and outside springs and light hiking.

I went here with other TAs on an unusually warm January day and walked around. Next time I'm definitely bringing a bathing suit.




(photo from:Wikipedia)

Of particular interest to me is that the area has a really long history of settlement, fromf the Bronze Age to the Celts to the early Christians to (obviously) today. There's even ruins of an old church right on the hike!!


Gurk and Schloss Strassburg

 (pictures courtesy of Anita)

Another weekend I went on a somewhat spontaneous roadtrip to a very rural and different part of Carinthia all together. It took over an hour up a bunch of mountain roads to reach these places but it was so worth it!



Gurk is a pretty small/sleepy town today, but wasn't always this way.
In 1043 years ago Saint Hemma of Gurk founded a monastery here—which didn't last long.

The inside of the church was also beautiful--and some of the painting on the wall was such a contrast to what I'm used to seeing here



The Archbishop of Salzburg of the time wanted influence over the area for himself and his archdiocese (as all Archbishops of Salzburg seem to want to do...). In 1072 he dissolved the monastery and replaced it with the Diocese of Gurk. For those at home keeping score of the political drama of the Investiture Contest, Gebhard was a major supporter of the Pope and huge opponent of King Henry IV.

We also visited the town and fortress of Strassburg. The main attraction for us was the Fortress just above the town, built in 1147. It served as the seat of Prince-Bishops of Gurk until the 18th century. Its presence made Strassburg the most important town in this little valley.



Exploring the castle was a lot of fun. An earthquake badly damaged the castle in the 18th century and it has only been partially rebuilt. In the summer, there is a restaurant open for business, which would have been cool to check out.





I'm hoping before I leave to do some other little trips to get to know the area. It's such a different type of travel from visiting all the big, famous cities here.

Beginning Coding!


In addition to traveling and moving about, I also discovered this month I really really want to learn to code. I spend so much time on the computer and internet, and really like more mathematical/logical tasks even though I majored in pretty much the opposite of that. I've also been missing systematically learning and studying new sets of things since leaving school. SO why not go all out with a field where I have no experience?

This month I did a crash course introduction to HTML/CSS (not programming languages but still kind of necessary) on codecademy and it's really inspired me to do a little bit more with those skills.

I think I decided I am going to learn JavaScript REALLY well over the next few months. There's a codecademy course, other learning to code sites, + a giant book for much more theoretical background to fill in any gaps. Even if it's not as much of a server-side language as some and still technically more of a scripting language, I think I can get a LOT of use out of it.

This year will also give me a change to practice and integrate programs I write into my lessons. So maybe now I'm just sorting cards, or vocab words for students alphabetically with JavaScript. But one day, I'd love to create something more tangible and useable in my and other classrooms.

In a perfect world, I would also love to combine these skills with my anthropology knowledge and training. One of the biggest issues I see with anthropology today is creating a dialogue with the public. (I noticed now how much easier it is to find good interactive teaching materials on science, and rote-memorized civics, etc for my lessons that more critical social science and humanities topics). And also the ability for people anthropologists study to access and respond to that research/those publication when it's trapped in books that usually just anthropology students read. There's so many much more active interfaces and ways of representing material and engaging people I'm just now finally itching to explore.

So maybe my scripting and programming knowledge is limited to putting lists of vocab words in alphabetical order or making websites from scratch that look like they're from 1995. BUT, I have so many ideas and things to look forward to.


I never thought learning all-the-computer stuff would start to take over parts of my year (or more?) in Austria, but there you go!

Monday, January 13, 2014

Family Visit

So... this post ended up longer than I planned. I hope you still enjoy it!

Wow—what an amazing meeting of different parts of my life.

For those of you who don't know, my mom and sister were able to visit me in Austria over Christmas and New Years. They landed on the 22nd of December and left January 3rd. On that interval we got to do so much—it was absolutely wonderful.

December 22-23: Exploring Vienna

(not-yet) bright and early on the 22nd I took a 5:30am train to meet my mom and sister in Vienna. Villach is a good 4 hours by train away from Vienna, so visiting the city was not something I easily do often. I got there with plenty of time to meet them at the airport and show them around.
It was so great seeing them both again, since the last time we saw each other was in September, and (if my current summer plans work out) I may not see them again until Late July. Vienna is not “my city” and possibly never will be. I have some acquaintances there and have visited a few times. Given our short time there (and jetlag on their parts), we mostly stuck to a few touristy sights—which we all enjoyed.





December 24-26: Christmas in Villach

We got in late the night of the 23rd to my current town of Villach. It was great for me to show them where I lived and what I did here. We saw “my” river and “my” cafe, not to mention the Christmas markets still in full swing those last days.



For Christmas Eve we all went to a beautiful midnight mass in one of the churches just a few minute walk from my house.



Christmas Day was quite wonderful—the other American teaching assistant Karen joined us! We cooked enough delicious food for the four of us, and Karen brought some dishes to complete the meal. We also bonded, conversed, and laughed over a rousing game of Cards Against Humanity, one of my Christmas presents. Definitely a Christmas I will remember.

 


On the 26th, we had time for a lovely lunch at my mentor teacher's house. It was great that my family and her family could meet each other. Of course the food was also quite delicious


December 26-28: Back to where it all began.
Shortly after lunch we hopped on our train(s) to.... Altmuenster!

For those of you who don't know, I spent August-January of my exchange year in/around the beautiful town of Gmunden. Our language camp was also in the next town over, Altmuenster, where I met Maggi for the first time almost 5 1/2 years ago.

We saw lots of sites that I have known for years. We watched the swans glide across the Traunsee, their aggression kept well-hidden beneath an air of noble grace. We visited a park and the See Schloss Ort, free of any hotels, despite what Austrian soap operas will have you believe. We saw the inside of the Altmuenster church—where memories of teenaged choirs, “Silent Nights”, and old and new people alike melded together for me.



Ceramic objects were also somehow a theme of the visit: from a visit to the, Gmunder Keramik factory to a stunning toilet museum (yes) to the plates we ate off—whether at the grocery store cafeteria I spent my time between classes or at cozy, locally-run restaurants in Altmuenster.

To me, however, the place that stood out the most was still our first evening and last morning in Maggi's apartment. In addition to my own saga of gross misunderstandings, nativity, and growing up in all ways imaginable, that space as seen many amazing stories. Just talking to Maggi, those walls (complete with original art from her daughter) have seen the beginnings of love stories and development of unbreakable friendships. The rooms have served as a sanctuary, a gathering place, and a space to share secrets. It is a space loaded with meaning and significance for so many people. The fact that my mom and sister got to meet Maggi and spend time here was one of the highlights of the trip





December 29th and 30th: To Hallein and Salzburg

Though my journey from Altmuenster to Hallein (well, Oberalm) was first by car, we took the train along a similar enough path. Like nearly five years ago, Elisabeth picked me up and welcomed me so warmly into her home.

After lunch and visiting, my mom, Jill, and I explored Hallein. Elisabeth dropped us off at my old school and we followed my beautiful walk back to the train station passing flowing brooks (the weather was unseasonably warm), centuries-old buildings, cobblestones, and narrow passages and alleys (the graffiti, “sex” written in large blue letters in one tunnel, was just as unfaded as five years ago). We made a pit stop at the main church, and the house where the composer of the music for “Silent Night” lived.
The walk was such a flash of memories—the restaurant where I ran into my history teacher who adored me; the little sign for picture frames, a new word at the time; The book store where I window shopped waiting for my train; the ice cream store I ran to the moment it opened in spring. Even if mundane they still meant something. Those walks always felt very solitary in the past. Experiencing them with family was something new, exciting, and still surreal.
After our walk Elisabeth drove my family up one of the nearby mountains—somewhere high enough so one could see snow on the ground. It was the most snow my mom and sister have ever seen—even if it was old and gross by my standards. The evening was filled with socializing. I always thought that my mom and host mom's easygoingness and independence reminded me of the other. I often pictured them meeting, and it was finally happening.




The 30th began bright and early with a train ride to Salzburg—where we would go all out and be the ultimate American tourists: we had book three places on the 9:30am Sound of Music tour.
[look at all the]
That internet meme is probably more famous in Austria than the movie itself. Most people I knew who heard of the movie disliked it on principle. I never would have done the tour on my own because of this. However I'm secretly glad I could use my family as an “excuse” to hum along to the songs and revisit some interesting sites. It was also a great way to see Mondsee, another lake in the Salzkammergut (that also has some cool much older archaeology going on).
For part of the afternoon I let my mom and sister do some touristy things while I wandered a bit and spent time with a friend who worked at a youth hostel.

Our evening was spent doing the other stereotypical spending-time-abroad-in-Europe activities. My host brother joined us for a late night of Kebap eating, “Irish Pub” frequenting, and a race to catch the last train back home.

What a day!

31 December

When we got back to Villach that afternoon, Jill and I were exhausted. We napped while my mom got to explore more of Villach. Then we switched places.

Jill and my New Year was spent at a gorgeous and delicious mountain top restaurant just outside of Villach. We joined some of my international friends and acquaintances here for a very cozy and fun New Years celebration—complete with seeing all the fireworks shows in the valley and dancing. We didn't get too crazy, though, because we had some big plans for the next day.




1 January—a whirlwind trip to Venice

Fun fact: Villach is just 3.5 hours from Venice by train. A few days before we decided to take advantage of this. I had already seen Venice, but of course my mom and sister didn't. We were only there for a few hours, but had some time to wander through the windings streets, gaze at the canals and gondolas, and make it to San Marco's square. We even caught a view of the Grand Canal just as the sun was setting. Our journey back to Villach was an adventure in itself. From the bus that didn't exist, to the inability to buy tickets to Villach in the train station, to very rapid Italian rants on the train at midnight, we definitely got a full experience.




Early on the 2nd my mom and sister hastily packed and took an early train back to Vienna—making it just in time. It was such a wonderful visit. Finally, a few weeks later, I am just beginning to process how these worlds collided. For sure it was an unforgettable visit =)

Saturday, December 21, 2013

Preparing for Christmas

(Warning: my English is getting a little strange. I speak a lot of German + hear almost-English at work all day long. Let's see how it will sound in May)

So... the Christmas season in Austria is basically Awesome—whether you're religious or not. And this year since I'm not in school, my December is not marked by end-of-the-semester papers and finals which is pretty nice.

For those of you who don't know, my mom and sister are arriving in Austria TOMORROW!! I am so excited and can't wait to show them everything! I'm so grateful that my grandmother and late-grandfather were able to make this possible. I'll have a lot to say about all the wonderful things we do together, so today's the last day I have to discuss some things I did before they got here:

--Went to Christmas concerts in Villach and Spittal (a more mountainous town of about 16,000) where 90% of the songs were in German, and most of the texts they read aloud were in Carinthian dialect

--Passed by the Villach Christmas market nearly every day on the main street. Each stand sold something different: from hats and mittens, to baked goods, to incense, to homemade dolls.

--heard lots of Italian at said Christmas market stands, since lots of Italians liked to go visit Villach's Christmas market

--Gluehwein at the Christmas markets: mugs of warm spiced wine + heated tents + music = wonderfully cozy

--Visited the ice skating rink just off the main street.

--Readings, concerts, and karaoke at my favorite cafe (I think I spend much more time there than in my own, mildly creepy living room)

--Baking American-style cookies

--Eating other people's Austrian cookies

--A Christmas party with my teachers IN the school. The teachers' room was transformed into a buffet area, and every time I looked up, my table was refreshed with a new bottle of wine.


--Gaping at the few Santa Claus decorations, all of which were sans reindeer and mostly had him up against the window staring inside...

Friday, December 13, 2013

A Reason the German Word for Nightmare Translates to Alp Dream

So, this post is only about two weeks behind—hooray.

One fascinating and somewhat terrifying tradition I experienced here was Krampus.

On December 6th in Austria and elsewhere in Europe, Saint Nicholas visited the houses of all the good boys and girls and brought them small gifts—usually chocolate. The day (or now days) before that, something else happens—the bad children were punished by creatures known as Krampus.

These creatures really are the stuff of nightmares:

(source: theatlantic.com)

This creature in some form of another, has been a part of Alpine folklore for over one thousand years, and has accompanied Saint Nicholas since the seventeenth century. Within Austria, this tradition was taken much more seriously in the more mountainous regions, especially Tirol, Salzburg, and to an extent Carinthia—my region, not as much around Vienna (we'll see what tourism and some sort of performance of an imagined authenticity does to this—if anything).

One way that people engaged this tradition of Krampus was to make or wear completely handmade Krampus costumes.

The masks were often handcarved from pine wood and could cost several hundred Euros alone.


(source: the atlantic.com)

The hairy/furry bodies were often made from over a dozen goat or sheep skins, take days to produce and also cost a few hundred Euros.

Many of them also had really large bells attached to the back of the costumes that would ring loudly every time the Krampus walked, a forboding warning of a monstrous creature nearing ever closer.

My observations/experiences:

I first came across Krampus during my first visit to Austria in August 2008 at our language camp. The instructors told us about this tradition, and pretended that in Gmunden, people even dress like them in August to scare away tourists (not really true). Joke was on us when they had their friends dress up and run after all the exchange students in the language camp's basement—unforgettable



Then, later in December I went to my first Krampulauf.

(Altmuenster Krampuslauf, December 2008)

In this Krampuslauf, it was basically a parade where dozens and dozens of people dressed as Krampusse walked past. If you were near the front, they reach at you to mess up your hair, hit you with sticks, throw flour on you, or other actions.

According to some people I talked to both this time and in '08, these parades were really safe and tame—almost too much so. The Krampus were not allowed to do such things to really really small children, and there was plenty of police presence to make sure the Krampus (many of whom had several drinks before beginning the parade) didn't do anything too crazy. Each Krampus also has a number on their costume, so if they did anything really inappropriate you have a way of finding out who it was.


This year, I also went to two Krampuslaeufe—one on a Friday night in Villach, the other on Saturday in Klagenfurt. It was pretty fun. In Villach one took my hat and made me chase it, and another hit my leg hard enough for me to feel it a good while later. Some of the TAs and I pretended to flirt with them, which was also fun and silly.

I knew about the Krampus tradition in other pars of Austria. I heard stories from very rural areas (including where my host grandmother lives) where Krampus stormed the schools and scared kids so bad they passed out. Places where wearing 3 pairs of pants (including ski pants) was sound advice. But do I feel like I missed out? Not really.


In Vilach and Klagenfurt, I was not really a tourist. Attending a Krampuslauf was a social event—not a tourist attraction. I was participating in my community's event, no matter the scale. Perhaps I didn't yet know any people behind the masks, but could tell my students in the crowd did. This was my way of celebrating Krampus, grounded in a specific time and place--not some abstracted, timeless Krampus "tradition". And it was wonderful.

Now.... for all the pics! (Klagenfurt ones taken by Karen)
from the Villach Krampuslauf, the lights in the back are our ice-skating rink.


Me, Donatella (the Italian TA at my school), and Marie (the French TA at my school)



Little kid Krampus in Villach


British and American TAs and Krampus in Klagenfurt



Krampus and Fire in Klagenfurt


Some of the images/extra research taken from: